Monday, May 19, 2014

Rouen

Our next stop is Rouen, the capitol city of Normandy. We wanted to see the old town with its cathedral as well as some of the sites with Joan of Arc history.

Rouen is an easy train ride from Paris - a little more than an hour trip. We picked up our rental car at the Rouen train station and got to our hotel after a few glitches finding parking. Thank goodness for GPS - many thanks to our friend Victor who lent us the France map chip! Our hotel at Rouen was the le Cardinal - a small family run hotel just at the cathedral's plaza. A great view of the cathedral from our room, especially at night with the exterior illumination. Very nice hotel - clean, friendly and great location. Lunch on the cathedral plaza - a Normandy salad, wine and coffee. It just occurred to me that except for breakfasts, we have eaten all our meals outdoors! I think we are becoming addicted to this life style!

As you, my readers may have come to suspect we are very interested in the history, architecture and art of Christian places of worship in old Europe - from small, one room chapels to grand cathedrals.  I even have Cath talking Roman vs. Gothic arches! The Rouen cathedral did not disappoint. Each cathedral seems to have a unique character, but they all are amazing especially considering when they were built. I love the architectural elements - Gothic arches, buttresses, vaulted ceilings and of course the stained glass. This cathedral suffered serious damage in WW II, but has been repaired except for some of the stained glass. The exterior stonework - how do they turn stone into lace (?) -  clearly draws you in, but inside you are humbled and made to feel small! This is a good example of this style, but not the most spectacular that we have seen before (Cologne, Strasbourg). Still it was a worthwhile sight.

I should tell you that one of the reasons I wanted to come to this cathedral was from a schoolboy fascination with Richard the Lionheart. So here in the cathedral was his tomb which I really wanted to see. Nothing grand, just a fine sculpture, in repose, nearby the alter. Still it was stirring to actually connect with my early daydreams of grand knights! Richard was one of the fabled dukes of Normandy in the line of William the Conquerer. Wow, history!

OK, next we walked the old city - narrow, cobbled streets crammed with shops.  There were many sections full of half timbered architecture. By mid- afternoon the streets were jam packed. The Joan of Arc memorial church is at the end of the pedestrian section of the old town. It is marked by a tall metal cross at the spot where she was burned at the stake. A statue of her looks lovingly at the cross.  Very sobering. The memorial church is modern both inside and out - quite a contrast to everything else in the old town.  It is very nice - especially the stained glass which fills one complete wall.

So that's a snapshot of Rouen. Next stop will be the Abbey of Jumieges and the port of Honfluer.

Photos: Rouen cathedral, cathedral interior, night illumination, Joan of Arc cross

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