Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Jumieges and Honfluer

After leaving Rouen, the Abbey of Jumieges was our first stop. It's an easy and beautiful drive through the French countryside. The river Seine takes great loops through this area and Jumieges is is tucked in one of these loops. What a beautiful sight - brilliant white stonework in a quiet park setting. The local village is just a handful of buildings across from the Abbey site. The Abby is actually in partial ruins and it is not anymore active, but it is still breathtaking.  The main towers still stand as well as some of the side walls so it is easy to imagine what it would have looked like.

This site was first established as an Abby in the 600s, burnt by the Vikings in the 900s and the large structure was begun later that  century by William Longspear, Duke of Normandy (a descendant of Vikings!). The Abby was finally consecrated in 1067 by another William (the Conquerer) who apparently had a busy schedule those last few years! Sadly it again saw decline during the 100 years' war and the French revolution. Throughout all of this and even today it remained a pilgrimage site on the so called Abbey trail. Amazing history.

Today it is still amazingly beautiful, even in partial ruin. The brilliant white stonework and the quiet park-like setting just draw you in. Maybe also it was the warm air and sunshine!

So after our walk-about we went across the street to a cafe for coffee to be enjoyed on the flower decked patio - perhaps like many earlier pilgrims.

Next, on to Honfluer. 

Honfluer is a beautiful small port at the mouth of the Seine. The main port, le Have, lies on the north side of the river so Honfluer is mainly for small fishing craft and yachtsmen. Like many places here, its history goes back to viking times and even earlier, but its name is of viking/Norse origin. In more recent times it is known for impressionist art. But nowadays I think it is mostly a great get-away for relaxation, sights  and eating and enjoyment. Day trippers and weekenders from both Paris and England are known to come here. So it seemed a logical place for us to start our channel coast explorations.

From Jumieges it was an easy drive of less than an hour. We took a route on the north side of the river that would take us over the pont de Normandy - a very modern, very high and long cable stay style bridge. A real thrill for bridge enthusiasts.

Our hotel, the l'Ecrin was VERY nice! It was like a small chateau. Lavish decorations and a wonderful garden.  The town center was an easy quarter mile stroll through cobbled streets. The center is built around a small, square harbor. The buildings surrounding the harbor are almost entirely restaurants - all with outdoor seating. So you stroll around the harbor until you find a menu to your taste and enjoy a meal with a harbor view and lots of people watching. After a meal there are shops along all the side streets. There is also an interesting wooden church in town. Wood working craftsmen from the boatbuilding trade apparently dominated the stone masons!

Overall, Honfluer was a great spot and we highly recommend it.

Next, off to le Mont St. Michel.

Photos: Jumieges Abbey, Honfluer harbor.

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